Baden-Baden.
The name by itself already sounds posh so I had some pretty high expectations
of the place to begin with. Let's Go Germany and Fodor's also talked about
it as a prime place to get pampered for a reasonable price, and since we
were only two hours away, we thought "Why not?"
After
all, this was Royalty Weekend.
Note
to travellers: I noticed that lots of German senior citizens like to take
the cheap trains on weekends for their hiking adventures. At first I thought
they were all going to Baden-Baden too and that we would see a lot of naked
elderly, which would be somewhat awkward for me! I can't deal with nudity.
Once we got to Baden-Baden's Hauptbahnhof, we decided to take a taxi to
the thermal baths because none of our guidebooks had directions to get
there. Unfortunately the first driver in the queue looked seedy but we
took him anyway since we were in a hurry. To make a long story short, the
taxi ride cost us a total of DM27, inflating our weekend budget more.
Caracalla
Therme was intimidating and rich-looking. At the front desk we forked over
our DM 21 and asked a lot of questions on how things worked. Basically
we get a key card valid for 2 hours, and if we overstay we have to pay
extra. The key card gives us access to the change rooms and beyond, and
allows us to lock our stuff in a locker. The change rooms were really cool,
they had two benches and baskets for your stuff, and they locked with these
lowering-arms attached to the benches, and you enter through one corridor
and the next parallel corridor held the lockers. You just pick any locker,
dump your stuff inside, stick the keycard in a slot, turn the key in the
keyhole and tie the key to your wrist or ankle. Very very organized!! After
all that, we were off (Plato got separated because he had to go to the
guys' changing room, naturally). The bathrooms were nice, the indoor pool
was really luxurious (that's the one with the massaging shower heads, fountains
and geysers) and it was actually a bunch of concentric whirlpools that
got hotter as you got to the middle. No one was actually swimming, more
like lounging around and sticking by the walls or walking from one end
to another ... including me. So basically we tried out everything, from
soaking in the really warm thermal baths and then quickly jumping into
the cold water bath next to it (trust me, that's how its supposed to be
done), to lying down on the suntanning beds (I didn't get tanned at all
though), to going into the aromasauna and sweating for a while, to going
to the upstairs section to see what the big deal was all about. 1. I only
peeped for, like, 2 seconds and I didn't see much since I wasn't wearing
contacts or glasses, and 2. Yes, there were naked people lying in the sun
and doing miscellaneous activities, it wasn't that big a deal, but since
I have the sense of humour of a 6-year-old, I was amused by it. After not
doing anything in particular for the rest of our time in the spa, we showered,
dressed up and left in roughly 10 minutes and left just in time. I thought
I wasn't going to make it because I locked my wallet in my bag -- my wallet
that had the keys to my bag IN IT!!! So I had to squish my hand in, fish
out the wallet, unlock my bag and get dressed in a hurry. Plato even had
time to dry his hair and weigh himself! After getting out, we sorted ourselves
out, tried some of the really hot therapeutic water from the three marble
basins in the upper lobby, and took photos outside.
Then
we still had some time left to look around so we walked to the Friedrichsbad
next door (that's the spa that was more expensive and where nudity was
compulsory), and down into the old town. It was pretty empty and, as usual,
nothing was open except for a few tourist shops. So we walked around the
cobblestone streets, sat on benches and listened to the violin and accordion
players playing classical music, and did some window shopping. Then we
took the bus back to the train station, got shocked by how cheap it was
(and how direct it was) compared to the taxi ride, and back at the train
station, guess who we saw? The same stinky taxi driver who brought us to
the spa. Grrr.
Nine
hour train ride home to Hannover. You don't want to hear about it, since
it was basically the same as the train ride to Heidelberg, except with
more sleeping involved. |